Tiger Woods’ mighty fall from grace cost him a lot more than PGA victories.

After losing five major endorsements since the fallout from his adulterous behavior and divorce, Rolex has announced a deal to bring golf’s second most-accomplished player ever to its brand.

Terms of the deal were not disclosed but it is believed to be at least five years. This will be the second marriage for Woods and the watch company, which originally parted ways in 2002 after Woods signed with Tag Heuer.

Wood’s public demise cost him sponsorships with Tag, AT&T, Accenture, Gatorade and Gillette. While he announced a deal earlier this year to endorse a Japanese heat rub product, this agreement is far more significant.

The announcement also comes as Woods returns to the course this week for the Frys.com Open.

“Rolex is convinced that Tiger Woods still has a long career ahead of him and that he has all the qualities required to continue to mark the history of golf,” Rolex said in a statement on their website.

If true, expect many more endorsers knocking on Woods’ door.

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To protect their business model and preserve their customers' feeling of exclusivity, the Swiss watch industry is cracking down on counterfeiting.

Case in point: 17,000 fake Swiss watches were seized in a raid on an apartment in Dubai, Arabian Business reports.

The raid follows an investigation that was led by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, who sent their own members to Dubai to uncover the fakes:

“New investigators were put on the case, using more direct and invasive methods,” the FSWI said. “In just a few weeks, our men discovered an assembly workshop run by Chinese nationals, concealed in a private apartment. The police raid seized nearly 17,000 fake Swiss watches... a major breakthrough,” it added. [emphasis added]

The sale of counterfeit goods is commons in certain areas in Dubai, but the key concern for the watchmakers was that the fakes would be sent to Europe, depressing sales in a market with tight counterfeit controls.

(via Hodinkee)

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This is a guest post from HODINKEE, a watch blog that's sharing some highlights from Basel World 2012, the world's largest watch show, with us.

After all the hype, you are looking at what is (probably) the first live photos of the actual Rolex Sky-Dweller. 

What it is is this: A Rolex in the Day-Date vein, but with a second timezone via an inner rotating disc and an annual calendar.  A Rolex annual calendar? Yup!

The annual calendar display the month with an inconspicuous aperture above the associated hour (12 hours - 12 months, get it?) and the date is displayed in the typical way under the trademark Rolex cyclops window.

Now check out the 10 most expensive watches you can buy right now >

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Drake might be on the hook for $30,000 if a Manhattan lawyer can prove the rap star stole his Rose-Gold Rolex Presidential.

James McMillan claims his uber-expensive time piece went missing after he dropped it off at jeweler Rafaello & Co., MTV reported.

McMillan reportedly dropped the watch off at the jeweler last year for a cleaning. When he returned to the shop a week later, he claims that his watch watch had been sold to Drake.

"He goes back to the store and confronts them and they confirmed that the watch was sold," Claudine King, McMillan's lawyer, told MTV.

Drake was seen wearing the watch on the cover of his second album.

But he claims he bought the watch directly from Rolex and has never bought anything from the jeweler mentioned in the lawsuit.

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Fashion-forward rapper Nicki Minaj will be wearing a Tommy Hilfiger gown and sitting at Tommy Hilfiger's table during tonight's Met Ball, aka fashion prom.

In order to thank Minaj for being Team Hilfiger on the big night, the designer sent her a Rolex Oyster 41mm Day-Date II watch in Everose gold that retails for a mere $32,000.

Hilfiger is also outfitting Zooey Deschanel, Debbie Harry, Lily Aldridge, and Kings of Leon-frontman Caleb Followill for the exclusive event, reports Women's Wear Daily.

Wonder if they all scored such lavish gifts?

Minaj tweeted a photo of the extravagant "thank you" to her nearly 16.5 million followers:

Oh gee, thx Tommy. #tigerDial#bigface2#rosetwitter.com/NICKIMINAJ/sta…

— Nicki Minaj (@NICKIMINAJ) May 6, 2013

 Here's a better, right-side-up look at Minaj's new hardware:

SEE ALSO: Celebrities wore ridiculous outfits to the Kentucky Derby >

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Even if you're not a watch aficionado, chances are you've heard of the Swiss brand Rolex.

Rolex is a widely known status symbol, with over 700,000 of its timepieces pumped out annually. It's also one of the most counterfeited watch brands out there.

Bloomberg interviewed watch dealer David Duggan, who has been selling watches since 1975, to find out the best way to determine if a Rolex is fake or not. Here are some of his top tips:

1. The cheapest fakes are easy to spot because of their quartz dial movements. The second hand stutters along inside the counterfeit watch, whereas a real Rolex has a smooth second hand movement.

If you're still unsure about the difference between a "stuttering" second hand and a "smooth" one, listen closely — there should not be a ticking noise coming from a true Rolex.

2. The second way to spot a fake is by the heft of the watch. Fake Rolex watches are generally lighter, whereas a real Rolex is made of high-quality metals, and will weigh significantly more.

3. Next, take a look at the winder on the side. Usually, fake Rolex watches have rather basic winders to move the minute and hour hands. But a true Rolex will have a finely-crafted winder with engravings and grooves that are "quite a work of art," according to Duggan.

4. Last but not least, the cyclops lens on the face of the true Rolex will magnify the date. It's hard to replicate, so most counterfeit timepieces will skip this step and the date will appear the same size.

The cheapest watches sold on the street are pretty easy to spot. Duggan cautions it's when the fake watch is sold for over $700 that you will need to take your purchase to a watchmaker so he or she can remove the back of the Rolex and view the inner movements to know for sure if it's a counterfeit or not.

And always remember: "If it's too good to be true, it ain't true," Duggan says.

SEE ALSO: The 24 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold At Auction

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When a man flashes his cuff and his watch is revealed, what does it say about him?

Classic men's jewelry that is sophisticated without going over the top falls into two categories: a wedding ring and a great watch.

We visited Bergdorf Goodman's Men's Store to chat with Town & Country Magazine's style director Stellene Volandes about the watch styles and shapes that make great long-term investments.

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2 + 2 = ? appears to be one of the easiest problems in mathematics, and it is probably one of the first you ever encountered. If Kate has 2 apples and Matt gives her 2 more apples, then she has 4 apples. Obviously.

But what if we told you that 2 + 2 = ? has stumped even some of the smartest mathematicians because it doesn’t necessarily have to equal 4?

You’re probably wondering how that’s possible.

But First, Here's An Example

Let's talk about watches.

I get to work at 7 o’clock in the morning. This is what my watch looks like. It's first time that the smaller hand of the clock hits 7 on the clock’s face that day.

Later in the day, I leave work at 5 o’clock in the afternoon. When I look down at my wrist, this is what my watch looks like. This is the second time that the smaller hand of the clock hits 5 on the watch’s face. The first time was at 5 AM.

In other words, the smaller hand of my watch has hit all 12 numbers on the face, and then started again from 1. We can think of 1PM as 13 o’clock; 2 PM as 14 o’clock; and 5 PM as 17 o’clock.

However, most people don’t say: “I’ll be done with work at 17.” They generally say: “I’ll be done at 5.” If you do this as well, you’re actually solving a complicated math problem without even realizing.

The Watch Operates In A Specific System

What’s happening is that the watch’s hands operate in a system (the watch’s face) that has 12 numbers, but the watch’s hands are attempting to represent a system, which has more than 12 numbers (in this case, the system is a day which has 24 hours).

We’re going to class the watch’s system “Modulo 12”, meaning that 12 is the highest number we can have on the watch which has the numbers 1, 2 , 3, 4 … all the way through 12. (Don’t freak out! Modulo is just the fancy math term for the math we are doing).

As a result, to understand how the 17^th hour in the day is represented on the watch, one must do 17 (the number outside of Modulo 12) minus 12 (the maximum number in Modulo 12) which equals 5 (which is a number within Modulo 12 to represent a number outside of Modulo 12).

In other words, in the watch system, we can say that 12 + 5 = 5 because 5 represents 17.

Weirder still, even though you’d think that 13 +4 = 17, in this Modulo 12 system, 14 +4 = 6 because 6 pm represents “18 o’clock.”

Now, Back To 2+2

Using what we learned here, let’s get back to 2 + 2 = ?.

Believe it or not, you can actually create a Modulo system with any numbers. It does not have to be limited to Modulo 12 like with the clock with the numbers 1 through 12.

Now, our new system is going to be Modulo 3 with the numbers 0, 1, 2. This is a little different from the watch, because a watch doesn’t have 0’s. Let’s quickly refresh what that means.

Modulo 3 with numbers 0, 1, 2 means that after we reach the third number in our set of numbers, we start counting from the first number again. In this case, after we reach 2, we start again with 0. This is just like with the watch, when after we reached 12, we started again with 1.

So now, let’s see what happens when we add 2 + 2 in a Modulo 3, (0,1,2) system.

2 + 2 = 4. But 4 is outside of the numbers that we can use which are 0, 1, 2.

2 is the highest possibility, and we are adding the next two numbers, which are 0 and then 1. Simply put, in this system, 1 represents 4 kind of like 5PM represented 17 o’clock in the watch problem.

In mathematical terms, we now have 2 + 2 = 1.

Cool, right? So now, if you want to sound smart in front of your friends, you can smile and say that 2 + 2 = 1 and explain it using nothing more than a watch on your wrist.

SEE ALSO: How To Talk Like A Poker Pro

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Classic men's jewelry that is sophisticated without going over the top falls into two categories: a wedding ring and a great watch.

We visited Bergdorf Goodman's Men's Store to chat with Town & Country Magazine's style director Stellene Volandes about the watch styles and shapes that make great long-term investments.

Produced by Alana Kakoyiannis.

NOW WATCH: 4 Essential Suits Every Man Needs In His Closet

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Private equity queen Lynn Tilton, who runs Patriarch Partners, will be receiving a huge tennis award next month. 

Tilton, an alumna of Yale and former women's varsity tennis player, will be awarded with the highest honor bestowed by the Intercollegiate Tennis Association–the 2014 ITA Achievement Award. 

"Thrilled [and] grateful to receive this honor,"Tilton Tweeted. "[Yale tennis] was a defining time in my life [and] foundation for success."

According to the ITA, the award "pays tribute each year to past participants in the world of varsity tennis who have achieved excellence in their cho­sen careers. The spirit of the award honors both professional success and contributions to society, made either as a direct result of a career, or through humanitarian efforts."

Tilton will be honored at a ceremony on September 5th at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in New York. 

She will also be presented with "a distinctive, personally engraved, Rolex timepiece." (Let's hope it has some diamonds so she'll wear it. She already owns a MASSIVE bejeweled timepiece by Jacob the Jeweler that fits her "dust to diamonds" persona.)

During high school, Tilton was a nationally-ranked tennis player. According to a profile in New York Magazine, she would practice every day after school until it got dark. She went on to play varsity tennis for three years at Yale.

After college, she began her career on Wall Street. She worked at Goldman Sachs and Merrill Lynch before launching her own firm, Patriarch Partners.

SEE ALSO: 45 of the biggest tennis players on Wall Street

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True story: When I first became interested in "nice" watches I had little interest in Rolex. Looking back, I think I found them a bit ordinary or too conservative looking.

My 20 year-old self perhaps saw them as being "too safe" from a design perspective and not close enough the modern, experimental designs I was attracted to at the time.

That was all true. Rolex watches are design monoliths.

Due to Rolex's impressive marketing over the years, as well as the sheer popularity of their products, they have become the archetype of the "nice watch." And everyone certainly knows about them. My younger self was simply looking for something a bit more fresh. It was not a right time to get my first Rolex.

Over the years my relationship with Rolex evolved. It is now one of admiration, appreciation, and certainly understanding.

I know what Rolex watches are good at, I know what to expect from the brand, and I certainly know how seriously other people take them. And that goes equally for new and vintage Rolex watches that attract very distinct fan.

Why People Want A Rolex

Rolex watches are perhaps the finest mass-produced industrial timepiece on the planet. They may actually be the finest mass-produced anything. And by mass-produced I mean in terms of watch brand production volumes which for watches at the Rolex price point is most always less than one million watches per year.

Eventually, I came to approve of and even greatly desire one, then two, and later more Rolex watch models. What really changed my perception of Rolex was being able to survey the competition. My status as a watch writer and expert affords me the opportunity to handle over 1,000 watches per year. I've reviewed a lot of watches and can say for sure that Rolex does a lot of things the very best.

You also can't deny the communicative power a Rolex watch has when saying something about your status, wealth, and taste. None of it may be true, but years of work have given Rolex wearers a pretty good personality edge. Even people who think buying a Rolex is a too easy way of showing actual or apparent wealth can usually only fault the wearer and not the watch. I've come to find that a Rolex watch is infrequently a bad choice.

People tend to want buy a Rolex for one of the following main reasons: to celebrate an achievement, to own a watch that appears to hold value, to communicate a level of career or life success, to own a luxury watch that is a simple choice, or to wear a timepiece with a lot of history. Most Rolex watch models would satisfy each of these needs. No reason is better or worse, but it is interesting that most people's desire to wear a Rolex falls into one or more of these categories.

The natural next question to ask is whether these are good reasons or whether these are just marketing perpetuated ideas to sell watches. That is a very good question and I think the most simple response is that whether or not these ideas are perpetuated by marketing, they are true. Rolex watches are frequently given or purchased on special occasions. Rolex watches to tend to hold their value very well. And Rolex watches are a well-known luxury brand with a name lots of people have a positive association with. So marketing aside, they are true claims.

People have sometimes asked me if "Rolex watches are the best in the world?" Rolex is probably the most powerful luxury watch name, and their products are very well-made, these are facts. However, Rolex watches are the last timepiece some people will buy, and for others they are just a start.

Rolex tends to make simple mechanical movements and a limited variety of core designs. There is an entire universe of more complicated, more expensive, and more thoroughly designed watches. Having said that, few will claim that a Rolex doesn't belong in a well-rounded watch collection.

When Is The Right Time To Buy A Rolex?

Around the time this article was written, we on aBlogtoWatch were wrapping up a viewer poll on this exact question. Visitors to aBlogtoWatch were asked, in their opinion, what the best time to buy a Rolex watch was.

Four possible response choices were given and the results were remarkably well-distributed. About 21% said that it was best to buy a Rolex as soon as they could afford it. About 24% said the best time to get a Rolex was after sampling watches from many other brands. About 25% said it was Rolex time as soon as you've achieved a certain level of success. The rest weren't interested in Rolex watches at all.

The poll results indicated that 70% of aBlogtoWatch readers felt it was a good idea to buy a Rolex at some point. Clearly, you need to afford one first. As of now, the entry level price for the most basic new Rolex watch is about $5,000, with most pieces people want priced in the $8,000 - $12,000 range. Of course vintage or pre-owned Rolex watches can be less or actually more money.

Assuming the money is in the bank, you need to feel emotionally ready. Sound silly? Well given that people associate so many types of sentimental feelings with Rolex watches, it is actually something to consider. Let me tell you what I personally feel. Like I said earlier, Rolex watches are a monolith. The brand is like a rock-solid force that was here before I was born, and will be here after I have left.

Rolex also does not really add or subtract models with any speed or regularity. In fact, the watch models Rolex sells today, will in some highly recognizable form, be available long into the future. Rolex evolves their product collection versus changing it. That means it is as good a time to buy a new Submariner now, as it will be in 5, 10, or even 20 years. The Submariner will still be around - and it is that type of reassurance that Rolex has worked so hard to foster.

Having said that, I'd love a Rolex right now, but perhaps it would be a foolhardy decision. I am among those people who believe that the time to buy a Rolex is right after you've sampled a lot of watches, and when the right level of life success calls for it. I am just one person however. What we've done for you is collect the thoughts of our most respected fellow watch experts and writers to weigh in on this issue.

What The Experts Say

You know what we have to say on the topic of when to get your first Rolex watch, and below you'll see what other important voices think as well. It is important for you to feel that your new (or new for you) Rolex comes at the right time. Our colleagues and fellow experts offer their advice on the matter of your first Rolex watch below:

Ben Clymer of Hodinkee.com:

"I think that a vintage Rolex in particular is an excellent watch for beginning collectors for a few reasons. In fact, I would say that if one is comfortable with the brand positioning of Rolex, it is arguably the finest "first nice watch" someone can own.

The reason that I would suggest vintage early in the collecting career is A) they can be had for little money comparatively speaking, B) you get a superb, historic, and truly in-house watch from a bluechip brand, and C) it was the 1950s-70s when Rolex was really in its hey-day. In fact, I would argue that Rolex is the most important watch brand of the 20th century - their list of technical firsts is a mile long, and watches such as the 1970s Datejust (ref 1603), which very much like the modern Datejust today, can be purchased in good, original condition for $2500 (+/- depending on condition, etc).

The modern equivalent, which is very much the same watch, retails for double the price and the aging commonly found on the dial and hands give the vintage pieces a nice, elegant glow. The Datejust (or Oyster Perpetual, or Air King, etc) is a superb everyday watch that is universally appreciated and universally acceptable - whether with a t-shirt and jeans or a suit. The cases, bracelets, and movements are of exceptional build quality and I don't think there is a better buy for that kind of money.

I think a modern Rolex is a slightly different story, and the real benefit to buying new is if you want a true sport watch that can handle anything you throw at it. Sure, an old Submariner or GMT can be serviced to be completely water-proof, but they still have plastic crystals and 40 year old parts (here and there). A modern Rolex is built like a tank, and while they may not have some of the charm of some vintage pieces, they are truly exceptionally well-made watches. Though, I think they lack some of the charm of the early tritium and radium dials."

Michael Clerizo from the Wall Street Journal:

"I like the way the Japanese gift watches based around an occasion such as a graduation, a significant birthday, a first job or an important promotion. I think that approach should apply even if you're buying for yourself. A mechanical watch is not like buying a lamp or a computer, it is something very special so you should link purchasing one to a meaningful event in your life. Both the event and the watch will hold more meaning that way.

As mechanical watches require some care you need a sense of responsibility to own one. We all mature at different ages but many people (males and females) have the sense of responsibility by sixteen or by eighteen."

Robert-Jan Broer from the Fratellowatches.com:

"Rolex still has an "image" that it is a watch to commemorate something special. Your first job, your first child, your graduation, your wedding, and so on. I feel, that if you are buying a Rolex to celebrate something, you should always try to go for a brand new Rolex instead of a pre-owned one.

If you aren't buying a Rolex to celebrate a joyful event, but just want to buy that first good watch that will last a lifetime, you might as well take pre-owned Rolex watches into consideration. A pre-owned Rolex will certainly save you a few bucks, unless the Rolex is a sports model that is much sought-after (f.i. Submariner, Sea-Dweller, GMT-Master). Chances are quite good that the price of a pre-owned vintage Rolex equals a new Rolex watch or is even more expensive."

Jake Ehrlich from RolexMagazine.com:

"I believe the best time for someone to purchase their first Rolex is whenever they fall in love with a Rolex watch, and decide they have to have it and can't live without it. It's that simple. This happened to me 30 years ago, when I was 16 years old. There was a Rolex Authorized Dealer (AD) in Mill Valley, California I somehow wandered into when I was 16. At the time, Rolex had recently introduced the first Submariner with a synthetic sapphire crystal, which gave it a really modern look.

I fell madly in love with that watch and used to go visit it at least once a month. I became friendly with the jeweler, who must have thought I was nuts, because I would drop by just to try on the watch and stare at it like it was Sophia Loren.I remember thinking to myself, there was something magical about the Submariner. I was stunned by its super-timelessness and purposeful looking design. I remember thinking there was something very James-Bond-like about it, and I thought, if I could just get one, it would somehow make me invulnerable – like wearing a bracelet with magic powers.

At the time I did not realize that every James Bond actor had worn the Rolex Submariner as their default sport watch, but for some reason, when I would look at it on my wrist, the James Bond theme music track would start playing in my head! You know. the dun-na-na-na, na-nunna, dun-na-nunn-na...

One day, when I was still 16, I went to go visit the Rolex Submariner again, and the jeweler said "Hi Jake! Coming to visit your best friend again?", to which I said "Yes." Then he said, "Why don't you just buy the watch, so you don't have to come in here and stare at it on your wrist?" I remember asking the AD every imaginable question about the Submariner, and I remember being frustrated that I could not just buy it since the watch retailed for just over $1000 at the time, which was a lot of money, particularly for a 16-year-old.

I thanked the AD, and he said "See you soon!", to which I responded "Yes you will. I will be back before you close the store this evening to pickup the watch." He smiled and had this kind of confused look on his face. Somehow, I came up with the $1000, and showed up several minutes before the AD closed and bought the Rolex Submariner.

The AD sized it for my wrist, and I could not stop staring at the watch. I remember I went home and laid in bed for hours staring at the timeless beauty of the design, and when I turned the lights off, I would get way under the covers and completely cover myself in blankets so no ambient light was visible, and I would just stare at the beautiful lumed dial, and I would stare at the second hand as it moved ever so precisely around the dial in big circles. So my answer is, you should buy what you want or in my case had to buy, whenever you can afford it."

Paul Altieri from Bobswatches.com:

"A good time to buy your first Rolex watch is when you have enough discretionary income to where you can afford the model you want. Our average Rolex buyer is 40 to 45 years old but we have recently experienced a 15% increase in younger buyers in their mid to late twenties.

But they all share the same love and appreciation for what it means to own and wear a Rolex. And while some are celebrating a momentous occasion like a college graduation, the vast majority are just buying the watch for themselves because they want it!For those looking to find the best deals: buy soon after a major holiday like Christmas or Fathers Day where it is sometimes possible to find a small percentage discount. But don’t expect to find bargain basement close-outs. Not on a Rolex.

Advantage of buying a pre-owned Rolex? A pre-owned Rolex watch, unlike a new one, will not depreciate in value soon after it is purchased. While buying a new Rolex is akin to buying a new car: they will both depreciate in value substantially after they are purchased. By buying a pre-owned watch you have essentially eliminated this retail markup devaluation making it possible to someday sell your Rolex for more than you paid."

Frank Geelen from Monochrome.nl:

"Buying a first Rolex is something monumental and it makes sense to do this for a memorable occasion. This can be either a celebration (high school diploma, university graduation, promotion at work, wedding) or something for remembrance (using an inheritance for instance)."

James Stacey from aBlogtoWatch:

"7/10 Rolex buyers are buying exclusively for the name and do so whenever they have the cash to afford an 8K+ watch (as Paul said). If you consider yourself a watch nerd type, you may be buying a Rolex (and a specific model at that) for a variety of reasons. Rolex has a sport watch tied to the history of many manly pursuits (Sub = diving, daytona = racing, explorer/II = exploration, GMT Master = pilots, gold date just = dictator/mafioso/cocaine cowboys)."

NOW WATCH: 3 Watches You Should Wear If You Want To Impress People

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There are tons of available Rolex watches to choose from. And that doesn't even include Rolex's rather intense catalog of vintage and no longer produced models.

Many people know they want a Rolex watch but aren't sure what model to get.

Some people simply want the name on their wrist and are looking for the least expensive model. Other people have a closer connection with a specific model's history, or simply feel that one particular Rolex fits their lifestyle best. Even then, with all the options available it can be difficult to decide what your first Rolex watch should be. So let's take a brief look at what Rolex watches are available, and how to satisfy the various reasons you want to buy one.

What Are You Looking For?

As we discussed in Part 1 of the Guide To Buying Your First Rolex, different people want Rolex watches for different reasons and at different times in their lives. Understanding what your needs are will certainly help in determining what your first Rolex watch should be.

The Rolex you buy might be your first and last Rolex, or the start of a collection. You'll want the first model to have some meaning, residual value, as well as a versatile style. Most Rolex watches are designed to fit with many outfits, but that isn't the case for all of them. Also, those with a specific interest in value retention have special considerations to make.

People who just want the Rolex name on their wrist probably have the hardest time. These people are going to be looking at thousands of available watches all over the world hunting for the best watch, at the best price, in the best condition.

Today, the Rolex Air King models are the entry level pieces and the least expensive with a price of about $5,000. These are basic models and are considerably smaller than most of the other popular models from the brand. We will discuss more of that below.

Pre-owned or used Rolex watches can be a good deal, but again, require a fair amount of time to located, verify, and purchase. There are used Rolex watch dealers out there, or you can use a range of online resources to purchase Rolex watches from existing owners.

The problem is that these resources are mostly geared toward knowledgeable enthusiasts who know what they are looking for. Novices new to Rolex are going to find these resources more challenging, so we recommend going to a reputable pre-owned Rolex dealer. Alternatively, you can of course visit a new Rolex dealer for the most simple, but of course pricey experience.

Vintage Rolex watches exist in bounty, but can be marked by extremely high prices given their rarity. Also note that compared to today's average men's wrist watch size, vintage Rolex models tends to be quite small. In fact, today's average Rolex is of "moderate" size compared to other watches (though that fact is changing as Rolex steadily releases larger watches).

Having said that, owning a good quality vintage sport or dress Rolex model can be very rewarding in both style and "cool" factor. Having a vintage Rolex Submariner for example is not only often less expensive than a brand new model, but is certainly more hip. They also aren't so small as to appear like ladies watches much of the time.

When looking for a Rolex to fit your lifestyle things get easier. For men we will identify three types of lifestyles or characters that Rolex watches will fit into nicely. First there are what we call "everyday casual sport watches." This represents most of the men's collection and are just that; sport watches that can be dressed up or down and are suitable for everyday wear.

We will discuss the models we recommend in this range below. Next are office or formal watches. Rolex has a couple of product families that will serve you very well in a suit and tie. These watches are not inherently sporty, but are durable enough. From a style perspective they are attractive, timeless, and mature... but not really suitable for jeans or shorts much of the time.Having a dedicated "suit and tie" Rolex will make it better for an office environment, but it will lack the versatility of a sport model.

Last, are the more "showy" Rolex watches. These are the more "blingy" versions with diamond decoration and/or fully made from precious metals such as 18k yellow, rose, or white gold... or platinum. These models exist in the other Rolex watch families, but are factory decorated by Rolex to be much more status symbols than a handsome everyday timepiece.

Often times people who come into a lot of money, land a huge business deal, or simply want to show off wealth prefer a model such as this. Consumers should be careful when buying pre-owned in this category because many of them are aftermarket creations (such as diamond setting) versus those fully made by Rolex.

Trust us that Rolex offers more than a generous selection of "factory" bling versions of their products. The options are staggering, with countless variations and levels of diamond decor mixed with different types of precious metal cases

Models Available

Right off-the-bat, we want to inform you that we are not going to discuss all Rolex watches available. That would be a very long and overly complex list. What we will do is discuss a survey of the model families and discuss some basic considerations in helping you to choose the right model to suit your needs.

We also want to point out that both sport and dress watches from Rolex are available in precious metals and with diamond decoration. Of course the styles and designs vary, but getting a solid 18k gold Submariner with a diamond-studded bezel is more than available.

Rolex Sport Watches

The most versatile and thus popular watches are Rolex's sport watches. King of the hill is the Submariner with an average price of about $8,000. Available in a few styles and materials, your basic black Submariner model in steel is the go-to piece for the majority of Rolex lovers.

The 40mm wide steel case is a good middle-ground size, and its style works well with anything from a tuxedo to a t-shirt. Immensely popular, the only bad thing we can say about the Submariner is that you won't be the only person in the room to have one. New or vintage, these are solid models.

Close to the style of the Submariner are related models such as the GMT-Master II (similar in appearance but with a second time zone hand), the Sea-Dweller Deepsea (a larger, more professional use dive watch), and the Yachtmaster (dressier version with a style between a dive watch and a dress watch). Think of these as offshoot models which vary the core theme but are all related by the same DNA.

These are all good options as well and will have prices within a few thousand of your basic Submariner. In a nutshell, the Submariner is the most popular, and the others offer interesting, yet sometimes minor, variations that might suite your style and lifestyle better. None are inherently "better or worse" watches, and are worth a look to find the right size, material, and color for you.

Less expensive than the ultra popular Submariner are the Rolex Explorer and Explorer II models. Both in steel, one is 39mm wide (in its most modern forms) three-hand watch, while the other is a 42mm wide (in its most modern form) GMT model. These models make excellent starter Rolex watches because even new, their prices are relatively low ($5,000 - $7,000), but they are well-sized and good-looking.

While not right for everyone, a perennial favorite among the "want to show I made it crowd" is the Rolex Daytona chronograph. At 40mm wide, this is Rolex's famous chronograph watch and it comes in a range of styles. Famously, the steel version of the Daytona was being sold for a premium over its retail price as it was so popular for a while.

The Daytona is dressier than Rolex's other sport models but is still a very versatile timepiece. Compared to most other chronograph watches, the Daytona is a bit small, but certainly has a strong following. Its base price is more expensive than a Submariner.

 Rolex Dress Watches

We mentioned that the Rolex Air King is the brand's entry level model and is a casual dress watch. However, we cannot easily recommend it for men because while Rolex considers it a men's model, at 34mm wide it is only suitable for boys. Women are much more likely to be seen wearing it.

In fact, Rolex has been modernizing the sizes of its men's watches to fit the demands and expectations of today's male buyer. The majority of "older' men's watch sizes such as 36mm and below are primarily being purchase by women these days. We recommend men to look at Rolex watch sizes no smaller than 40mm wide.

While the Submariner was our top pick for a Rolex sport watch, the Datejust II is our top pick for a Rolex dress watch. Updated from 36mm wide to 41mm wide, the famous fluted bezel of the Datejust has been a hallmark of Rolex for decades.

At first, the Datejust might seem stuffy and conservative, but it is a remarkably useful and good looking watch once you get to know it. In steel with a white gold bezel, its base price is about $9,000. Though in precious metals it can go way up in price. A perfect watch with a suit that combines a good style and the name you are looking for.

Not offered in steel and priced higher are the Rolex Day-Date II watches. These feature a day of the week complication and are otherwise similar to the Datejust models in size and style. The Day-Date II watch is also known as the Rolex "President" much of the time. These watches are certainly more showy and expensive given a lack of steel versions. It is a good watch for a middle-aged man who feels he can afford it without struggling with an average price of about $30,000.

While other potential Rolex dress watches exist, we like to focus on the Datejust II and Day-Date II as good 'first' Rolex watch models. Though in reality, most Rolex watches can be dress watches if the right version and attire are chosen.

Also, note that in this entire article we do not mention average pre-owned prices or vintage watches for a reason. First, pre-owned popular Rolex watches often sell for prices close to retail. If not, then they aren't in good condition. Also, many vintage Rolex models are too small for us to recommend for most modern men, though there are lots of exceptions and personal taste is a factor.

Furthermore, exploring vintage Rolex watches is often reserved for those who are aren't first-time Rolex buyers. Nevertheless, our panel of experts does offer some valuable advice below on looking at vintage Rolex pieces.

Life Of The Watch

As we mentioned earlier, a very important consideration to make is "what will the life of this watch be?" So consider if you want to keep the watch for life and wear it every day. Will it be just an occasional part of your collection? Are you interested in a watch that you can sell in a few years for a profit or at near purchase price? Each of these considerations will alter your choice of model.

For those wanting to wear the pieces every day, we recommend a popular sport model that is easily available. These will likely retain value, but aren't really going to increase in value. These will look good with most outfits and will be timeless in their appearance.

Value speculators are advised to look for rarer or niche Rolex models. A good example is the green bezel and dialed version of the new Submariner. It has a slight price premium over the black dialed model, and is produced in less numbers.

It is also less classic looking and thus going to be in lower demand at this time. History has told us that such lower production, more niche Rolex watches tend to be collector's items in the future. Though how long into the future is anyone's guess.

People who want a Rolex watch for mostly special occasions should seek out their dressier or showier models in precious metals and perhaps with diamonds. These watches will be used as wealth and status symbols and thus don't need to go along with all types of outfits or occasions. Otherwise, you'll look like a South American drug lord wearing a diamond-encrusted gold Rolex in your workout clothes. On the flip side, a mere Rolex Submariner isn't likely to deliver the right message if you are trying to impress people at a high-society event or executive luncheon.

Before you read the important thoughts below from fellow experts, our friends at Minus4Plus6 have uploaded the full 2012 list of Rolex watch retail prices here.

What The Experts Say

Once again, we visit our panel of experts for supporting or alternative views as to what your first Rolex watch should be:

Ben Clymer of Hodinkee.com:

I don't think there is a better buy in the world than a 1960s or 70s Rolex Datejust. The watch is a true icon, imitated but never duplicated, you get a fantastic movement, and everyday wearability. I also think the Oyster Perpetuals and Air Kings are excellent first-time buyer watches, but the Datejust I think has a bigger upside down the road (financially) and it is 36mm (though it wears larger) whereas the others are 35mm and smaller.

A Submariner 5513 or 1680 is also an excellent choice for a first time buyer, though they are slightly more expensive - sport watches tend to fetch significantly more money than "non-sport watches". But of course there is larger demand and higher possibility that these sport watches will increase in value over time.

The Day-Date, sometimes known as the "President" (though incorrectly, that refers to a bracelet often found on the Day-Date), is also an incredible value if someone is looking for a solid gold watch. Yellow gold Day-Dates from the 70s sell for a literal fraction of the current retail price, and again, they are very much the same watch.

Michael Clerizo from the Wall Street Journal:

With Rolex (as with many things is life) I am a classicist and I like things simple. My vote for first Rolex purchased is the steel and white gold Oyster Perpetual Datejust with a black dial. I think this model suits either men or women.

Robert-Jan Broer from the Fratellowatches.com:

An ideal first Rolex watch would be an all-time classic, like the Submariner or GMT-Master. It will fit most people perfectly, not only in terms of appearance but also in terms of 'requirements'. These iconic watches will keep good value as well. Although you will lose a bit of value in the first few years, after the annual indexing by Rolex, the prices of pre-owned models also go up.

After a few years you will at least get back what you paid for it and from that moment on, everything extra is a bonus. However, I wouldn't think of a (Rolex) watch as an investment. There are better and easier ways to earn money. Another advice is to stick to stainless steel. The gold/steel combination is very sensitive to scratches, especially the polished gold surfaces.

The satin brushed bracelet of the Submariner will keep its good looks forever if you properly take care of it. Now, there used to be a difference between a Rolex Submariner Date and No Date in the past. The No Date wasn't chronometer certified and the Date version was.

However, Rolex took care of this a couple of years ago and now all Submariner models have been chronometer certified. So, the difference between a Date and No Date Submariner is merely one of convenience or aesthetics. What do you like best? Do you need a date feature on your watch? A Rolex Submariner with Date also means you get the magnifying lens (or cyclops) on top of the crystal.

This is not to everyone's liking. In the end, you decide! I would either pick a Submariner NoDate because of its clean looks or a pre-owned Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 because of the date feature - but without the cyclops. Best of both worlds! Buying vintage is a whole different chapter. You might not want to go there if this will be your first watch.

Jake Ehrlich from RolexMagazine.com:

The ideal first Rolex is the one you have to have and can't live without. You should not buy your first Rolex because the price is right, or because of the status. You should never compromise, and should get exactly what you want. This brings up the second part of your first question, about whether or not to buy a new or used Rolex.

Typically, if you buy a pre-loved Rolex you will save money and not bite the depreciation bullet. However, there is something to be said for the experience of going to an AD and picking out a brand-new watch and knowing everything about the watch is authentic.

In 1983, when I was 16 I bought my first Rolex Submariner, A year later when I was 17, I bought my first Apple Mac. I actually pre-paid for my first Mac and picked it up the first day it was available to the public. I paid $2500 plus tax for the Mac, and also bought the Apple dot-matrix printer for $500.

So basically, in 1984, a state-of-the-art Mac was three times as expensive as a stainless steel Rolex Submariner, which was $1000. Fast forward to 2012, and the same Mac retails for between $1300 and $4000 depending on how you get it equipped.

A stainless Rolex Submariner is about $8000 today, which makes it seem like it has increased in real dollar price over the years by 2-3 times. But, that original Mac computer I purchased 30 years ago is useless and worth almost nothing, and the Rolex Submariner I purchased has significantly increased in value and is now worth around $5000!

It has pretty much remained a rule, that with every Rolex I have owned over the last 30 years, and I have owned many, that I am always able to purchase them, and when it comes time to sell them, I have never lost a penny, so I basically got to wear the Rolex watches for free, and that speaks volumes.

Paul Altieri from Bobswatches.com:

Easy: Rolex Stainless Steel Submariner with Black Face model 16610 – this iconic model is everything you need for your first Rolex. It is stylish enough for work and everyday wear yet classically elegant for any occasion. Everything is perfect about this model from the size, the dial, the bracelet and the brushed steel. It is one of the most popular luxury sport watches in the world and has consistently held its value over the years.

Frank Geelen from Monochrome.nl:

Many first time Rolex buyers that I know, chose a Datejust or Submariner. It seems that other models are usually for the more seasoned watch collector.

James Stacey from aBlogtoWatch:

Safe bet: Sub no date 14060 (used) or 214060 if you want the flashier ceramic bezel. Stick with the stainless/black dial unless you REALLY like gold.
Small wrist or no love for sporty designs: Date Just

The individual: Millgauss 116400, maybe even the GV with the green-tinted Crystal.

My pick: Rolex Explorer II 16570 "Polar" - 40mm, bright white dial with black-bordered hands and markers, GMT complication. Interesting, gorgeous on bracelet or NATO, the design does not scream Rolex. I prefer the 16570 models that don't have the signed rehut and all of these versions over the 216570 which, while sporting a 42mm case, looks wonky with its maxi dial (large hands and markers). These will have to be sourced pre-owned but will likely hold their value if treated well and serviced occasionally.

SEE ALSO: How To Spot A Fake Luxury Watch

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In this special feature article, we go on a quest to better understand what is behind the unremitting rise of luxury watch prices, and to do so, we will explore how and why Rolex prices have increased over the last 60 years. You see, while the steep increase of high-end watch prices has become evident to every discerning watch buyer on this planet, it remains difficult to point out exactly why and how things have changed so radically... or, if they have changed at all.

This is, without a shadow of a doubt, one of the most pressing issues in the world of watches today, something that has raised countless questions and fueled numerous debates among watch enthusiasts, collectors, and experts alike. It has directed the spotlight on issues such as value proposition, the economic state of both the industry and the luxury consumer, and has made us want to discover the "hidden driving forces behind it all." To answer as many mysteries as we can – and perhaps to ultimately raise new, previously unasked questions – we decided to scrutinize the pricing practices of one of the absolute benchmark brands of the luxury watch industry: Rolex.

About the process

To begin with, we used official retail prices dating back as far as 1957, based on data compiled byMinus4Plus6.com. This magnificent price table contains authorized retailer prices in about 5-year steps for just about all important Rolex references that debuted in or after 1957. We processed the raw data linked to two of the more popular models of the brand, namely the Submariner no-date and the Cosmograph Daytona, and we have also looked at the Submariner in 18k gold to see how this precious material has affected affordability. We dedicated charts to each of these examples. On the charts, we have marked in black the respective retail prices for each year, while in red we indicate how the price of each watch would have changed over the years had Rolex raised prices only to counter the effects of monetary inflation.

Naturally, there are many other factors beyond inflation that can define a fine watch's retail price, such as costs related to base materials, labor, research and development, marketing and brand positioning, as well as long-term investments related to advancements in manufacturing processes. With that said, our primary goal now is not to find a detailed answer for each respective model's appreciation but rather to acquire a comprehensive understanding of how and why luxury watch prices have changed so much in general.

The key steps in the process of "luxurification"

In an ideal world, no brand can go on for decades making the exact same product while gradually raising prices to several times of what it initially sold said product for. Regardless of whether we are talking about a historical model or a new one, we all expect our latest purchase to pack a number of new features or developments, refinements that grant that our latest and greatest piece is truly that, with advancements in terms of design, comfort, reliability or accuracy.

When it comes to wristwatches, there are many ways we could define what sets a luxury item apart from the rest, but for now we will say that a luxury item is one that goes beyond meeting the requirements set strictly by necessities only. Ever since the first wristwatches became commercially available around the early 1900s, there have always been superior – and hence more expensive – as well as cheaper watches, differing in the level of quality that they offered in the aforementioned factors. But despite that 100-year-long history, the dawn of the luxury watch industry as we know it today dates back to the mid-1980s. It was around then that the Swiss finally found their way out of the quartz crisis that almost completely destroyed them.

To understand the evolutionary cornerstones in the development of a fine-watch-turned-luxury-product, we must examine a product with an expansive and continuous history, one that dates back way beyond the '80s. A model we found to be most suiting for those purposes is the Rolex Submariner. Although its history is rather complex, for now we will say that upon its debut in 1954 it was one of the few professional dive watches out there at the time, and as such, it was more of a tool than anything else. By contrast, today's Submariner, the tool-watch of yesteryear, has transformed into an internationally recognized status symbol, consequently becoming one of the most widely imitated watch designs of them all. That is quite some transformation, and upon closer look, we will see how nicely this one model comprises the steps in the transition from a tool to a luxury product.

As the story tells – and the picture above beautifully illustrates – the Submariner remained more of a tool watch than anything else during its first few decades of existence. Its initial 100 meter water resistance was quickly doubled by the company and as such its 660 feet / 200 meter depth rating, rotating bezel and durable (for the time, that is) construction made it a perfect device for divers. By contrast, while the more modern iterations of it have been improved in just about every aspect one can imagine, the Submariner has gradually left the depths of the oceans and started a new and successful career in business meetings, spending vastly more time hidden under cuffs than exposed over diving suits.

It went on to incorporate better quality steel, replaced aluminum bezels with more beautiful and resistant ceramics, substituted most stamped components with milled ones, has become more legible, and much more accurate. But why was all that necessary, if only a microscopic percentage of its owners actually harness its enhanced capabilities? Because it has become a luxury item, something that must not only look, but also perform better than its more widely available counterparts – even if its heavy-duty construction will not once be put to test in its lifetime.

When it comes to Rolex and their historical models, we have seen them perform a large number of subtle as well as some major modifications over time. There is a peculiar way of coupling these two kinds of enhancements, meaning that smaller improvements are generally synchronized with the debut of more considerable alterations. In Rolex history, this generally translates into presenting a new, more refined movement which is accompanied by more minor improvements on the watch, such as a more durable and comfortable bracelet, a new bezel or luminescent material, and other tweaks.

That same trend widely applies for the luxury watch industry as a whole. Since the dawn of the new millennium most high-end brands have gone out of their way to emphasize the importance of "in-house" movements as they realized the potential in how this positively separates them from their non-manufacture counterparts. Researching Rolex history reveals that there have been some vital turning points in the lives of their products, gradually making them more refined in every way. But an obvious consequence of "more refined" is "more expensive."

But how much do such advancements actually cost the consumer? On the chart above, you will see in black how prices of the Rolex Submariner No-Date changed from 1957 all the way through May, 2014. In red we marked how the original 1957 price of $150 would have changed had it followed monetary inflation only. The math is simple behind this one. If we adjust the original $150 price from 1957 with inflation to 2014 US Dollars, we end up with a price of $1,265 while the watch actually costs $7,500 today. This means that one could say the no-date Submariner costs six times more than it "should." Things are not that straight-forward, however.

A fine watch has never been cheap

You see, while adjusting for inflation could be indicative of how watches have become more expensive, this must be taken with a (substantial) pinch of salt. What primarily defines the affordability of products is not just the price and how that changes in comparison to monetary inflation over time, but rather, how the price of the product compares to people's average income. As we know, inflation is the rate at which the general level of prices for goods and services is rising and, subsequently, how purchasing power is falling. With that said, the increase of average income should – and in the long term it does – outperform inflation, meaning that if the price of a fine watch followed inflation only, it would actually be getting cheaper as consumers have incomes outperforming the rate of inflation.

After that brief 101 in basic economics, let's bring theory into practice and see how all that translates into watch prices and overall affordability. To show you just that, we created the following chart illustrating how the affordability of the Submariner no-date, one of the key models of Rolex, has changed in the United States, between 1957 and 2012.

Let me explain what you just saw above. The results you see labeled above every column range from around 6.7 up to 14. This figure indicates the amount of Submariners which the "average yearly income per capita" could purchase in any given year. Since we are talking about a time scale of over 50 years here, for easier understanding and actual comparability, we have transferred all US Dollar prices and wages into 2012 US Dollars. In other words, in 1957 when the average yearly income was $13,591 (Source: US Bureau of Economic Analysis) and the price of the watch was $1,225 (originally it cost $150 which, when calculated into 2012 US Dollars, is $1,225).

Now, in 1957 if the average watch lover spent all his/her hard-earned yearly income on Submariners, he could have bought 11 of them. By contrast, in 2012 when the average per capita income in the United States was $42,693 and the same model cost $7,500, the average US yearly wage bought you only 5.65 no-date Submariners.

We admit that this might sound like an unreal proposition – because it is, as no one in their right mind would spend all their income on Submariners! But let's put that aside for a minute and concentrate on the point that is to be made here: when considering the average US income, the Rolex Submariner has become three times less affordable since the 1970's – and that is tangible, factual proof for a high-end watch gradually becoming a luxury item. In 1970, the average American earner worked 3 weeks to earn the price of a Submariner, while in 2012 the price of one accounts for over two months' worth of his income. This goes to show that although a fine watch has never been particularly cheap, some very evident repositioning has happened over the course of the last few decades.

Outlining a trend

Thus far, we have been looking at the price changes of the Rolex Submariner, so now let's examine other models the brand has repositioned since their debut decades ago. On the chart above, you will see the Rolex Daytona in stainless steel and how its prices have changed. Again, in black is the actual price of the Rolex Daytona, while in red is the original price adjusted for monetary inflation. If we look at the chart at the 2012 mark we will see that the watch, priced at $11,250 was nearly six times as expensive as it "should have been" based on prices merely adjusted for monetary inflation, which came in at $1,996. So, has the Rolex Daytona in steel become six times as expensive as it once was, in 1973?

Well, in 1973 the average personal income (which was $21,486 in 2012 US Dollars) purchased nearly 11 Rolex Daytona watches in steel, priced at $1,996 each. Meanwhile, nearly forty years later, in 2012 when the average per capita income in the United States was $42,693 and the Rolex Daytona in steel cost $11,250, that figure drops to a mere 3.8 pieces. That means that while the Daytona has received a new in-house movement and has arguably improved in many more subtle ways, practically it has not become six times as expensive as our calculations based on monetary inflation would suggest. In truth, once we compare average personal income in the US, we will find that the 2012 purchasing power of the average yearly wage has dropped to 35% of what it was in 1973 – speaking about the Rolex Daytona, that is.

One may of course rightfully say that the volatility of base material prices have largely affected the final price of the product, and again, we do not disagree. For the aforementioned examples however, we have made an exception and have not taken that into consideration. So for our third, and last scrutinized model we will actually incorporate historical base material prices in our calculations... so read on to learn about the Rolex Submariner in 18k gold.

On the chart above, you will see the same red columns which you have already become familiar with, as they (and the data labels above them) indicate the number of Rolex Submariner 18k gold watches that the average yearly income in the US could buy in any given year. In yellow, however, we have introduced a readout for the price of gold, indicated by yellow columns and yellow data labels (we must note that there may be some minor differences in gold prices in different online databases, but the point here is to see the trends change and not to track down negligible differences in gold price records).

With that said, the correlation between gold prices and the Rolex Submariner 18k gold watch prices are evident. Let's direct our attention to the noticeable trend between 2006 and 2012. In 2006 the price of an ounce of gold was around $630 US Dollars, and the Rolex Submariner 16618 in 18k yellow gold cost $23,100. In 2012, when gold prices have nearly tripled to a whopping $1,600+, the updated version of the Submariner, i.e. the 116618 in yellow gold retailed for $34,250 – a whopping increase of 48% over the course of just six years! In other words, a 260% increase in the price of gold (and a model update with new ceramic bezel, bracelet design and other minor updates) have cumulatively resulted in a price increase of 48%.

So, what have we learned here? The price increase of luxury timepieces unquestionably is a complex topic and one that we are definitely going to further elaborate on in the future. As a first step, we hope to have shed light on some of the previously unseen aspects of how prices and also personal income levels have changed over half a century. We have seen some of the steps in the long and rather intangible process of how Rolex watches have become a luxury item from a tool, initially tailored for professional use.

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Rolex really isn't like any other watch brand. In fact, the privately held, independently run entity isn't like most other companies. I can say this now with a lot more clarity than most people because I was there.

Rolex rarely allows anyone into its hallowed halls, but I was invited to visit their four manufacture locations in Switzerland and experience first-hand how Rolex makes their famous watches.

Rolex is a universe of its own: respected; admired; valued; and known across the globe. Sometimes I sit back and think about all that Rolex is and does and find it hard to believe that at the end of the day, they just make watches.

Rolex does just make watches and their timepieces have taken on a role beyond that of mere timekeeper. Having said that, the reason a "Rolex is a Rolex" is because they are good watches and tell pretty good time. It's taken me over a decade to fully appreciate the brand, and it will probably take longer before I learn everything I'd like to know about them.

The purpose of this article isn't to give you a totally inside look at Rolex. That isn't possible because as of now there is a strict "no photography" policy at Rolex. There is a very real mystique behind the manufacture because they are relatively closed and their operations aren't public. The brand takes the concept of Swiss discreetness to a new level, and in a lot of ways that is good for them. So since we can't show you what we saw, I'd like to share with you some interesting facts that every Rolex and watch lover should know.

1. They Use An Expensive And Difficult To Machine Steel Because It Looks Better

Many watch lovers are familiar with the fact that Rolex uses a type of steel that no one else uses. Stainless steel is not all the same. Steel comes in various types and grades... and most steel watches are made from a type of stainless steel called 316L. Today, all the steel in Rolex watches is made from 904L steel, and as far as we know, pretty much no one else does. Why?

Rolex used to use the same steel as everyone else, but in around 2003 they moved their entire steel production to 904L steel. In 1988 they released their first 904L steel watch with a few versions of the Sea-Dweller. 904L steel is more rust and corrosion resistant, and is somewhat harder than other steels. Most important to Rolex, is that 904L steel, when worked properly, is able to take (and hold) polishes incredibly well. If you've ever noticed that steel on a Rolex watch looks different than other watches, it is because of 904L steel, and how Rolex has learned to work with it.

A natural question is why doesn't everyone else in the watch industry use 904L steel? A good guess is because it is more expensive and much more complicated to machine. Rolex had to replace most of their steel working machines and tools to deal with 904L steel. It made sense for them because of the amount of watches they produce, and because they make all their parts in-house. Most other brands get their cases made from outside suppliers. So even though 904L steel is better than 316L steel for watches, it is more expensive, requires special tools and skills, and is overall more difficult to work with. This has prevented other brands (so far) from taking advantage of it, and is something special that Rolex has. The benefit is obvious once you handle any steel Rolex watch.

2. Rolex Has Its Own Science Lab

Given everything Rolex has done over the years it shouldn't come as a surprise that they have an internal Research & Development department. However, Rolex takes it well beyond that. Rolex has not one, but several different types of extremely well-equipped professional science labs at their various facilities. The purpose of these labs isn't just to research new watches and things that may go into watches, but also to research more effective and efficient manufacturing techniques. One way of looking at Rolex is that they are an extremely competent and almost obsessively organized manufacturing company - that just happens to make timepieces.

Rolex labs are as diverse as they are amazing. Perhaps the most visually interesting is the chemistry lab. Full of beakers and tubes that carry liquids and gases, the Rolex chemistry lab is full of highly trained scientists. What is it mostly used for? Well one thing that Rolex stated is that the lab is used for developing and researching oils and lubricants that they use in machines during the manufacturing process.

Rolex has a room with multiple electron microscopes and some gas spectrometers. They are able to take an extremely close look at metals and other materials to investigate the effects of machining and manufacturing techniques. These large areas are extremely impressive and are used seriously on a regular basis to remedy or prevent possible problems.

Of course Rolex also uses its science labs on the watches themselves. An interesting room is the stress test room. Here watch movements, bracelets, and cases undergo simulated wear and abuse on custom-made machines and robots. Let's just say that it would not be unreasonable to assume your typical Rolex is designed to last a lifetime (or two).

3. Their Movements Are All Hand-Assembled And Tested

One of biggest misconceptions about Rolex is that machines build their watches. The rumor is so pervasive that even people at aBlogtoWatch believed it to be mostly true. This is because traditionally Rolex didn't communicate much on this topic. Well the truth is that Rolex watches are given all the hands-on human attention that you'd like to expect from a fine Swiss made watch.

Rolex uses machines in the process for sure. In fact, Rolex easily has the most sophisticated watch making machinery in the world. The robots and other automated tasks are really used for tasks that humans aren't as good at. These include sorting, filing, cataloging, and very delicate procedures that involve the type of care you want a machine to handle. Most of these machines are still human-operated though. And everything from Rolex movements to bracelets are assembled by hand. A machine however helps with doing things such as applying the right pressure when attaching pins, aligning parts, and pressing down hands. Having said that, all Rolex watch hands are still set by hand via a trained technician.

It would be an understatement to suggest that Rolex is obsessive about quality control. A predominant theme in the manufacture is that things are checked, re-checked, and then checked again. It feels as though their goal is to ensure that if a Rolex watch fails, it does so before it leaves the factory. Large teams of watchmakers and assembly people work on every single movement that Rolex produces. This is before and after their movements are sent to COSC for chronometer certification. And on top of that, Rolex re-tests their movements for accuracy after they are cased for several days while simulating wear before they are sent out to retailers.

4. An In-House Foundry Makes All Their Gold

Rolex makes their own gold. While they have a small handful of suppliers that send them steel (Rolex still works the steel in-house to make all the parts), all the gold and platinum is made in-house. 24k gold comes into Rolex and it is turned into 18k yellow, white, or Rolex's Everose gold (their non-fading version of 18k rose gold).

Large kilns under hot flames are used to melt and mix the metals which are then turned into cases and bracelets. Because Rolex controls the production and machining of their gold, they are able to strictly ensure not only quality, but the best looking parts. To our knowledge Rolex is the only watch manufacture that makes their own gold or even has a real foundry in-house.

5. Technology Is A Watchmaker's Best Friend

The philosophy at Rolex seems to be very pragmatic, if a human does it better, then let a human do it, if a machine does it better, then let a machine do it. In fact the reason more watchmakers don't use machines is two-fold. First of all machines are huge investments and in many instances keeping people around to do it is less expensive. Second, they don't have the production demands that Rolex does. In fact, Rolex is fortunate to have the ability to equip its facilities with robotic help where needed.

The epicenter of Rolex's automation prowess is the master supply room. Massive columns of parts are attended to by robotic servants that store and retrieve trays with parts or complete watches. A watchmaker needing parts must simply place an order with the system, and it is delivered on a series of conveyer systems to them in about 6-8 minutes.

Robotic arms populate the Rolex manufacture locations when it mostly comes to repetitive or highly detailed tasks that require consistency. Many Rolex parts are given an initial machine polish by a robot, but amazingly they are hand-finishing and polished as well. The fact is that while modern technology is a huge part of the "Rolex manufacturing machine," robotic equipment is there to assist what is a very real, human watch making operation.

6. Fort Knox Has Nothing On Rolex

It isn't surprising that Rolex is keen on security. At their foundry for example, I was given a bar to carry around that weighed in at just over $1,000,000 worth of Everose gold. There is a lot more of that, as well as valuable completed watches that need safekeeping. Rolex employs a series of extremely meticulous security checks and they had a James Bond-style safe that is located a few floors underground.

I noticed that rank and file watch assembly employees have an interesting system on their desks that required their ID badge be docked at all times after being identified with a fingerprint scan. Everything is scanned and cataloged. In fact, each Rolex watch movement has a unique serial number that is photographed and matched with a case that also has a different unique serial number. In the future when the watch is serviced, a watchmaker can learn everything there is to know about it.

Accessing the Rolex safe requires entering a bank vault door and passing an iris scanner that identifies you via your eyes. When Rolex parts move from location to location, they are transported in highly discreet unmarked (and likely heavily armored) trucks. Rolex is very serious about their safety, and for a really good reason since it is often said (in truth) that Rolex watches are just as good as money.

7. Dive Watches Are Each Individually Tested In Pressurized Tanks With Water

All Rolex Oyster case watches are thoroughly tested for water resistance. The way that this is often done at watch manufactures is with an air-pressure tank. A watch is placed in a small chamber that is filled with air, and if the pressure changes at all, it means that air leaked into the case. Each Rolex Oyster, as well as Oyster dive watches begins with this air pressure treatment. In fact, each case is tested both before and after a movement and dial are placed inside of it.

Dive watches receive a separate treatment all together. After being air pressure tested, Rolex proceeds to test the water resistance of each and every Rolex Submariner and Deep Sea watch in actual water. This type of test is much less common. Submariner watches are placed in large tubes that are filled with water to ensure that they are water resistant to 300 meters. The test is extremely complex because Rolex employs a complex system for testing if water entered the case.

After the watches exit the tank, they are heated up and a drop of cold water is placed on the crystal to see if condensation forms. An optical sensor then scans them for trace amounts of water. Less than one in a thousand watches fail the test. The story is much more intense for Deep-Sea watches. Rolex co-developed a special high-pressure water tank with COMEX to depth test each Deep-Sea watch. The pressure tank looks like something from a science fiction movie. Imagine something that looks like a several ton Gatling gun. This machine takes well over an hour and measures each watch to a pressure equivalent to 12,000 meters deep.

8. An Army Of Gemologists Work At Rolex

It has been said that Rolex has preposterous standards for the materials it buys from its suppliers. This includes things like metals as well as precious stones such as diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. Rolex has a massive gemological department whose goal it is to buy, test, arrange, and set diamonds and other precious stones in a range of Rolex models. One of the things they do is check incoming stones to ensure that they are real. Using x-rays for example, they can test diamonds to ensure they aren't fake.

Rolex reports that in the years they have been testing diamonds, only two in 20 million have been fake. That might seem like such a small amount it isn't even worth their time to perform the test. Nevertheless, to ensure absolute quality, Rolex tests each batch of diamonds. This should also have an illustrative effect on the diamonds they use, which happen to only be IF in clarity, and D-G in color (the four grades closest to white).

Each and every diamond or precious stone (no matter how large or small) on a Rolex watch is hand-selected and hand-set. Rolex employs traditional jewelers to create custom settings for stones in their most exclusive watches, done using the same processes employed in creating the world's finest jewelry. It was amazing to see this level of artisanship and delicate care inside what many people believe to be a mass producer.

9. It Takes About A Year To Make One Rolex Watch

An advertisement for Rolex long ago claimed that it takes about a year to make a single Rolex watch. As suspicious as that sounds, it is true even today. Rolex produces almost a million watches a year, but surprisingly, no shortcuts are taken in the manufacturing process from what I could observe (and I've been to a lot of watch manufactures). Rolex is however interested in quality and efficiency. Basically, the entire company seems focused on producing the best watches, and continually seeing how they can make them better.

If you look at Rolex watches over time, they are more about evolution rather than revolution. This idea of always improving versus changing goes right into their manufacturing process as well. They are constantly learning how to improve quality through better processes and techniques. The move from aluminum to ceramic bezel inserts is a perfect example. Nevertheless, from starting to shape the parts of the case to testing a completed watch for accuracy, the process takes around one year.

Of course Rolex could speed this up for certain models if necessary, but each watch requires so many parts and virtually everything is made from base materials in-house. Once all the parts for a Rolex watch are completed, they are then mostly hand-assembled and individually tested. The testing and quality assurance process is rather intense.

A good example is how Rolex makes each of their watch dials. All of the dial are made in-house, and one of the most impressive facts is that all of the applied hour markers are set individually by hand. Often times at other brands, machines perform this process, but Rolex learned that a human eye is better trained to spot problems. So individual hour markers are applied and riveted by hand. Dials are dropped from 20cm up in the air to ensure that none of the hour markers fall out. This is a careful and time consuming process, and it is among the many elements of making watches at Rolex that is done by a skilled human being. Taken together, because of Rolex's rather fanatical dedication to quality across their huge production, watches take on average, about a year to produce.

10. Rolex Makes Virtually Everything In-House

After having said all of the above it probably doesn't come as a big surprise that Rolex makes virtually everything in-house as a totally vertically integrated manufacturer. As of right now the only major parts that Rolex doesn't make for all of their watches are the synthetic sapphire crystals and many of the dial hands (though I have a feeling the latter will change in the next several years). Rolex produces their own gold, cases, bracelets, dials, bezels, and movements in-house with incredible efficiency and quality.

It isn't just that Rolex can afford all the most useful machines, but also that Rolex invests into processes and techniques that are tightly-held trade secrets. The real value inside the Rolex factory are their tools and know-how, which no one could replicate even if they had a copy of their facilities.

Making everything in-house allows Rolex to be truly independent. Watch collector's often agree that there is the watch industry and then there is Rolex - the two just happen to make similar products. It is hard to love watches and not appreciate what Rolex is and what they produce. Traveling there I can fully understand why they aren't only the most successful high-end watch manufacture, but why they are also one of the most successful luxury brands in the world.

If I had to say one last thing about Rolex, it is that even if you personally don't like how their products look on your wrist (which puts you in a minority or people if after a few years you don't appreciate at least some models), you simply can't deny the absolute sense of confidence, reliability, and dignity the brand name communicates. I can personally attest to that. rolex.com

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The Apple Watch is going to hit the market pretty soon.

There's a raging debate about whether it will revolutionize the smartwatch category or be a humiliating flop that destroys the shared destiny of Apple CEO Tim Cook and design majordomo Jony Ive. 

A lot of chatter around the Apple Watch has a decidedly confused quality to it. If people don't much wear watches anymore (They have iPhones to tell time!), why would they want to buy one that starts at $350?

If you want a timekeeping device for your wrist, you can get one for $10 that tells time flawlessly and doesn't need to be recharged every night.

What does Apple expect folks to do with the watch — invent new modes of communication? Streamline their ability to pay for stuff?

Wear it like a fashionable high-end watch?

It only looks like a watch ...

Having paid attention to watches for a long, long time and, a few years back, predicted that wearables were going to be the next hot thing in tech, I can say that much of the confusion about the watch has to do with how it looks.

By that, I mean: Apple is calling it a "watch." You wear it on your wrist, and Ive and Apple's design team have worked hard to make it look like a nice watch, including the brilliant touch of retaining the traditional horological crown as an input feature. 

But the Apple Watch is not just a watch. If you consider all the other stuff the watch can do or will be able to do, the Apple Watch will essentially be a tiny iPhone strapped to your arm. It could do for wearable computers what the iPhone did for desktops and laptops and cameras and cell phones — rendered them all optional. (For a brief period a few years back, I was between laptops and reverted to using a very old model which couldn't browse the Web effectively, but I had an iPhone and experienced no real problems.)

So the critical question: With the Apple Watch, are we really dealing with a watch? Or a new genre of device that only shares with traditional watches a piece of real estate on the human body?

Obviously, it's not a watch. It's a small wearable computer that, for the moment, requires a slightly larger yet still very portable pocket computer — the iPhone — to work. Watches are only good for one thing, basically: telling time. Some have various other functions related to time built in, but they're called "timepieces" for a reason.

I use my watches to tell time time and, occasionally, to time things. Otherwise, I just enjoy looking at them. 

The magic, mutable Apple watchface

The only thing that interests me about the Apple Watch as a watch is the ability to change the watch face. It could look like a Cartier Santos ...

... or a Rolex Sub ...

... or a Panerai Luminor ...

... or a digital watch ...

... or something wilder and more exotic ...

 Cool!

The Apple Watch also benefits from a trend in watches of late: bigness. It's a large timepiece (although not, reportedly, enormous). A few decades ago, no one would have wanted to wear anything so chunky on their wrist — even the legendary Rolex Submariner, originally a diver's watch with a large form factor for its day, looks dinky compared with the slabs of micro-engineering that some people are strapping to their wrists these days.

The whole point of fine Swiss horology was to strive for thinness. For example, the Patek Philippe Calatrava, an automatic wristwatch that packs all its ingenious mechanical technology into mere 7-millimeter-thick case, like the example to the right.

Aesthetically, the Apple Watch fits in with the current style of wrist wear.

Leaving the world of watches behind

The only precedent I can think of for the Apple Watch is the modern dive watch, which is actually a dive computer. For decades, divers needed reliable watches that could survive the rigors of the deep. This is why the Rolex Sub is so iconic — it was the dive watch by which others were judged.

But nobody goes scuba diving with a Rolex Sub these days. They use one of these:

It costs $1,800. Which is a relative bargain, compared to the Rolex, which goes for about $8,000 — and was pricey even during its more utilitarian heyday. 

However, the dive computer does SO MUCH MORE than a Swiss automatic dive watch that it isn't even funny. That's why it's called a "computer."

And therein lies the tricky issue with the Apple Watch. Apple seems to be trying to please two constituencies with the device: those who wear or would wear a watch; and those who desire a wrist computer. 

Logical, given that the existing smartwatches haven't really taken off as a new tech category. They just don't much appeal to the watch set, which sees them as glorified Timex Ironman digitials. So naturally Apple decided to "conquest" these people, in the lingo of marketing. So the Apple Watch is exceptionally watch-like, as smartwatches go.

Apple wants watch folks to wear the watch every day, too, something that watch folks don't always do. Watch folks like to wear different watches. I would be depressed if I had to wear the same watch every day.

So to be a success, the Apple Watch has to be something that completely transcends all our preconceived notions about a gadget you wear on your wrist. Just as the iPhone completely redefined what a "phone" could be.

That's a lot to take on. Because I can go out right now and buy a great $350 traditional watch that will last practically forever, look good, and tell time.

For my perspective, there isn't much to be gained for Apple to compete with that. So it must have a much more all-consuming and ultimately indispensable future in mind for its much-awaited new gadget.

SEE ALSO: There are now a whole bunch of new versions of the coolest $150 watch in the world

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NOW WATCH: 14 things you didn't know your iPhone headphones could do

If you see an advertisement for a watch, chances are you'll see the watch's time set to 10:10.

Watchmakers have traditionally chosen 10:10 as their display time because it ensures that the watchmaker's logo, which is usually engraved beneath the 12, isn't obscured by the watch hands. On top of that, having the hands at 10:10 is symmetrical.

Apple, however, chooses to display a slightly different time on all of its Apple Watch promotions, setting the time one minute ahead to 10:09 rather than 10:10.

It's no mistake, either. Apple has a history of choosing a display time that has some significance, famously setting the time on all of its iPhone promotional materials and images to 9:41, the approximate time of day when Steve Jobs first unveiled the iPhone to the world back in 2007.

So why 10:09 for the Apple Watch? Apple appears to be making a statement about being ahead of the curve when it comes to smartwatches, and the facts back this theory up.

Many of the most famous watchmakers have a preference for the exact time displayed on their watches, according to Quartz. Rolex loves 10:10:31, TAG Heuer prefers 10:10:37, and Bell & Ross always opts for uniformity with 10:10:10. Timex, one of the few watchmakers who deviate from the 10:10 norm, displays the time 10:09:36.

Diving deeper, it appears that Apple wants the Apple Watch's time to be ahead of even Timex, and displays a specific time of 10:09:00 or 10:09:30, both of which allow Apple to consider itself "ahead of the times" with the Apple Watch.

So there you have it, it all boils down to Apple using a cheeky pun to symbolically stake its claim to the smartwatch market, all while tipping its hat to an age-old watchmakers tradition.

Update: Apple blogger Dave Mark over at The Loop has a different theory.

I think this is more about symmetry, about attention to detail, than about being ahead of the curve. At 10:10, the hour hand will be 1/6 of the way between the 10 and the 11 on the watch face. If the minute hand is precisely on the 2 (as it would be at 10:10), the minute and hour hands would not be symmetrical. At 10:09, the hands would be much closer to symmetrical perfection.

That sounds more like Apple logic to me.

Mark makes a great point, and his theory could also explain why the second hand is always at the 12 or the 6 position, as both maintain the symmetry of the watch face. Either way, there's no doubt that Apple was deliberate with its choice.

SEE ALSO: The 15 Apple Watch apps we're most excited to try

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MadeWorn is a still pretty new company (founded in 2013) which is the latest project by the well-respected and successful Mr. Blaine Halvorson. Blaine also happens to be a watch guy and recently began an interesting journey that others just like him have taken in the past - to include timepieces in his lifestyle concept in a way that works for his particular tastes and aesthetic. How people like Mr. Halvorson do this really depends on the individual, their connections, and how insanely deep they want to go into the mire which is trying to produce products in the world of watches.Blaine decided on an interesting angle that combines some unique elements as well as those greatly admired by many collectors in the watch industry - to take Rolex watches and use legendary American gun engravers to embellish the core look of a Rolex with incredible surface decoration. Blaine's challenge, in my opinion, is properly including these one-of-a-kind timepiece creations within his MadeWorn brand, and deciding how to create an image for his watches that consumers understand.

Meeting Halverson at his private, appointment-only retail and workshop space in Los Angeles, we sat down to talk watches, art, and brand building. Halvorson, like many of his contemporaries, is both a craftsman and an artist - who himself is a walking manifestation of his aesthetic, decorated with carefully curated clothing and tattoos. MadeWorn is really the dream project he wanted to do since the start, and was able to do after the sale of his successful business Junkfood Clothing in 2005. Today Halvorson collects stuff, build clothing and accessories, and hangs out in what I can easily describe is one of the most interesting retail spaces in all of Los Angeles.

The story of Halvorson runs a lot deeper than these watches and my brief description of him. Once I get to know him better, I can share his tale with you. I mention this because stepping into his world and seeing what means a lot to him is enough to have you asking questions, because not everyone likes - for example - taxidermy as much as him.

Part of the MadeWorn aesthetic can be understood by knowing that Blaine Halvorson grew up in Bozeman, Montana and enjoyed a very outdoorsy life from the time he was a small boy. His rustic, Americana sense of art is about discovering what was once lost, nature, and producing things by hand. Halvorson is very much a creative director, but he is also a craftsman who does things like cobble shoes, which he sells to clients for between about $900 and $3,000 per pair.

One thing Halvorson can't do is hand-engrave timepieces. Inspired by decoratively engraved guns, Halvorson found some of his favorite American gun engravers, and ask them to do some watch projects for him. Blaine isn't the first person to think of this, and in fact, watch making is something that still has a home nearby where he grew up. Bozeman has the Bozeman Watch Company, and nearby is also the Montana Watch Company that also has timepieces with engraved cases inspired by gun engravings. Several yeas ago, I reviewed the Montana Watch Company 1930 hand-engraved watch here.MadeWorn's approach is more like that of Bamford Watch Department - a company who has some parallels to what MadeWorn is doing. Bamford is a Rolex watch modifier who takes new Rolex watches and changes their textures and colors. MadeWorn, with its still very new collection of watches, takes new or vintage Rolex watches and customizes them with engravings or special bracelets. In fact, Halvorson likes the term "carvings" more than engravings, as it implies more manual labor.

Speaking of manual labor, I had to ask Halvorson if the engravers ran into problems while decorating the cases and bracelets of these Rolex watches. Modern Rolex timepieces use a very hard form of steel which is an alloy called 904L. In addition to being very corrosion resistant 904L steel is very difficult to machine. Engravers typically like working with softer metals such as gold, silver, or brass. While I didn't have a chance to discuss it with the engravers, Blaine did respond that the engravers offered a lot of complaints about the difficulty of engraving each watch.

Well, despite complaints, the resulting engravings are gorgeous and done with extreme precision. These are world-class decorations that you'd find on the finest guns or blades. I am a big fan of engraved decorations on watches - and while I personally am not into tattoos, I don't mind them at all on a wrist watch. According to MadeWorn, each of their watches takes about a month to engrave, and no two timepieces will be made alike.

For that reason, each engraved Rolex that MadeWorn offers will be a piece unique. From a logistical standpoint, that makes things tough for Halvorson. If he wants to produce these watches with any type of volume, he is going to need to constantly get new watches as a base, and then work with the engravers to come up with interesting designs. It is entirely possible that in the future, MadeWorn will offer a limited edition version, or engraved timepieces that aren't Rolex - but for now, the MadeWorn watches will all be based on Rolex timepieces that they acquire.

In some instances, MadeWorn will black DLC-coat the engraved watch, which adds an additional interesting look. For example, I was able to compare two engraved Rolex Explorer watches, with one in steel and one in DLC black steel. While the black option is cool, in my opinion, it is best to go with steel models, because you can see the engravings much better. Moving forward, some MadeWorn watches in black might have inlay colors to bring out the engravings more. In many senses, producing unique pieces allows for a lot of creativity and experimentation.

My favorite of the several engraved Rolex watches I was able to see at MadeWorn was an all steel Datejust II. It was very interesting to see the world's "business watch" filled with meticulous and attractive decoration. I wouldn't say that it is for everyone, but for people like me who appreciate "artistic density," this is an amazing (and expensive) item that checks off a lot of "I want" boxes. If you are more into minimalist Scandinavian-style design, then you'll probably not be so into a classic watch that has its clean lines sullied with hours and hours of tiny hand-carved pictures. You don't need to be a fan of MadeWorn to enjoy their watches. In a sense, the timepieces are very much a different beast from the typical (if there is any) clothing items that MadeWorn is known for. At the same time, they all go together, if you so choose. I'm really happy that Blaine spends time assembling the right talent to produce these beautiful creations, and for many watch lovers, I think this is a great way to combine a few of their passions together into one timepiece. MadeWorn, of course, is open to special projects, because at the end of the day, what Halvorson is all about is bringing together people with a creative vision and making something cool out of it.Prices for these one-of-a-kind customized Rolex watches vary, starting at about $10,000 and go up from there. Each of them takes the base value of a new or used Rolex watch and adds about a month of artistic labor. Seen in this article, the engraved Rolex Explorer on the leather strap is priced at $12,000. The engraved Rolex Datejust on the custom bracelet with turquoise stones is$16,000. This engraved Rolex Explorer on the bracelet is $22,000. The engraved Rolex Datejust II on the bracelet is $24,000. The DLC-coated black engraved Rolex Explorer on the bracelet is $26,000, and an already sold engraved DLC-coated Datejust II was $28,000. madeworn.com

SEE ALSO: When to buy your first Rolex

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The Apple Watch is the only Apple product I've even been super-interested in.

I like watches and always have, and I think Apple's design guru, Jony Ive, and his team did a great job, for the most part, in creating Apple's first true luxury device.

That said, I have no plans to buy and Apple watch anytime soon.

The watch fascinates me, and I'm looking forward to visiting an Apple Store to "play" with the "piece," as they say in the world of horological enthusiasm.

But the only thing I really want the Apple watch to do is tell time. Sure, some of the other features sound quite cool and probably have unforeseen potential, particular the quickie, minimalist messaging stuff and the ability to send your heartbeat to someone.

The combination of ever-changing watch faces and Apple quality is what, to me, is cool about the Apple Watch. I also sort of like the idea of owning the first of some Apple something. I just bought a new watch, a Swatch Sistem 51 (I wrote about the timepiece here), mainly because it's the first of its kind.

But I'm not going to buy the Apple Watch when it goes on sale, because I intend to wait three years and pick one up used, when perhaps the only thing it can still do is function as a watch. I don't expect Apple to crack the planned obsolescence curve with the watch — my family has numerous old Apple devices that kinda sorta work, like a 10-year-old iBook that's a glorified typewriter and a first-gen iPhone that takes awful photos. Basically, they've been reduced to performing a single duty.

In the watch world, depreciation is a much-discussed subject. The bottom line is that almost all the watches ever made and being made will be worth next to nothing almost right after they're purchased. Even watches in the $500-$1,000 realm won't be worth very much on the resale market.

The two brands that reliably don't depreciate that much are Rolex and Patek Philippe (there are others, but those are the Big Two). The right models from these major Swiss watchmakers will hold value over time, although they will depreciate somewhat (they can retain about 70% of their original prices as a baseline, and then depending on what model you've bought, even appreciate over the decades).

If you're an aspiring collector, the advice you'll most often hear is to buy a used Rolex or Patek, with all the correct certifications and documentation, at auction or from a reputable dealer. The deprecation from new has already taken place, so you can wager on the value of watch remaining somewhat stable over time.

The buy-in here is maybe $5,000 for a Rolex — a Submariner, for example — and substantially more for a Patek, perhaps $10,000 to $20,000 for an iconic model, such as the Calatrava.

These are watches with automatic or mechanical movements that, if cared for properly and serviced on schedule, could last forever — or as long as replacement parts are being made. 

The Apple Watch isn't a mechanical watch, so presumably it will suffer a much bigger initial drop in value. I don't want to fool with the entry-level model, which has an aluminum case. The larger stainless-steel version, with the link band, is where I'd start. My understanding is that it will be priced at about $1,000.

The significance of the watch may prevent it from losing half its value straightaway, so I'll assume that there's a "newness" premium that it will retain. But I still think its loss of functionality and displacement by newer Apple Watches will grind the value down. Plus, if people wear their Apple Watches every day, they're going to beat them up. 

So for me, the sweet spot to pick one up will be at the midway point of the second upgrade cycle. Apple Watch 1 will have been displaced by Apple Watch 2, and we'll be eagerly awaiting Apple Watch 3. I'm guessing that Apple will update the watch on a two-year cycle, so that means I'll be buying sometime in 2018.

My wager is that I'll be able to find the model I want, in reasonable working condition but with outdated technologically, for about $100, maybe a bit less. It will still tell time, but that's maybe about all it will be able to do. And if not, well ... I have a few old watches that don't work anymore that I sometimes just wear because I like the way they look.

Now, watches are more collectible than old iPhones, so there's every possibility that other collectors may have the same idea — and that a resale market for "vintage" Apple Watches may develop that keeps prices higher than they would be otherwise. And perhaps it would make more sense to avoid buying Watch 1, waiting for Watch 2, which will have a lower historical value. 

We'll have to see if that happens. I may have to cough up $200.

Anyway, I will own an Apple Watch. I just won't own one until I'm a bit older and grayer.

And as an aside, I certainly expect Apple stock to be worth more tomorrow than it is today. So it would be interesting to take the $800-$900 I won't be spending on a new Apple Watch and buy Apple shares instead.

SEE ALSO: Here's the thing about the Apple Watch — it isn't really a watch

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NOW WATCH: Steve Jobs' biographer says the Apple Watch makes perfect sense

The Apple Watch is the only Apple product I've ever been super interested in.

The thing is going on sale on Friday, and the advance reviews are in. They're mixed, which isn't too surprising, given that this is the first generation of a new piece of technology for Apple.

I like watches and always have, and I think Apple design guru Jony Ive and his team did a great job, for the most part, in creating Apple's first true luxury device.

That said, I have no plans to buy and Apple watch anytime soon.

The watch fascinates me, and I'm looking forward to visiting an Apple Store to "play" with the "piece," as they say in the world of horological enthusiasm.

From all the advance info that came out on the device, and now the early reviews, it sounds as if the Apple Watch can do quite a few things, though it also sounds as if it does some of that stuff badly, some stuff reasonably well, and a few things wonderfully.

But the only thing I really want the Apple watch to do is tell time. Sure, some of the other features sound quite cool and probably have unforeseen potential, particular the quickie, minimalist messaging stuff and the ability to send your heartbeat to someone.

The combination of ever-changing watch faces and Apple quality is what, to me, is cool about the Apple Watch. I also sort of like the idea of owning the first of something Apple-related. I just bought a new watch, a Swatch Sistem 51 (I wrote about the timepiece here), mainly because it's the first of its kind.

But I'm not going to buy the Apple Watch when it goes on sale, because I intend to wait three years and pick one up used, when perhaps the only thing it can still do is function as a watch. I don't expect Apple to crack the planned obsolescence curve with the watch — my family has numerous old Apple devices that kinda, sorta work, like a 10-year-old iBook that is a glorified typewriter and a first-gen iPhone that takes awful photos. Basically, they have been reduced to performing a single duty.

In the watch world, depreciation is a much-discussed subject. The bottom line is that almost all the watches ever made and being made will be worth next to nothing almost right after they're purchased. Even watches costing $500 to $1,000 will not be worth very much on the resale market.

The two brands that reliably avoid depreciation are Rolex and Patek Philippe (there are others, but those are the Big Two). The right models from these major Swiss watchmakers will hold value over time, though they will depreciate somewhat (they can retain about 70% of their original prices as a baseline, and then depending on what model you've bought, even appreciate over the decades).

If you're an aspiring collector, the advice you'll most often hear is to buy a used Rolex or Patek, with all the correct certifications and documentation, at auction or from a reputable dealer. The deprecation from new has already taken place, so you can wager on the value of watch remaining somewhat stable over time.

The buy-in here is maybe $5,000 for a Rolex — a Submariner, for example — and substantially more for a Patek, perhaps $10,000 to $20,000 for an iconic model, such as the Calatrava.

These are watches with automatic or mechanical movements that, if cared for properly and serviced on schedule, could last forever — or as long as replacement parts are being made.

The Apple Watch isn't a mechanical watch, so presumably it will suffer a much bigger initial drop in value. I don't want to fool with the entry-level model, which has an aluminum case. The larger stainless-steel version, with the link band, is where I'd start. My understanding is that it will be priced at about $1,000.

The significance of the watch may prevent it from losing half its value straightaway, so I'll assume that there's a "newness" premium that it will retain. But I still think its loss of functionality and displacement by newer Apple Watches will grind the value down. Plus, if people wear their Apple Watches every day, they're going to beat them up.

So for me, the sweet spot to pick one up will be at the midway point of the second upgrade cycle. Apple Watch 1 will have been displaced by Apple Watch 2, and we'll be eagerly awaiting Apple Watch 3. I'm guessing that Apple will update the watch on a two-year cycle, so that means I'll be buying sometime in 2018.

My wager is that I'll be able to find the model I want, in reasonable working condition but with outdated technologically, for about $100, maybe a bit less. It will still tell time, but that's maybe about all it will be able to do. And if not, well ... I have a few old watches that don't work anymore that I sometimes just wear because I like the way they look.

Now, watches are more collectible than old iPhones, so there's every possibility that other collectors may have the same idea — and that a resale market for "vintage" Apple Watches may develop that keeps prices higher than they would be otherwise. And perhaps it would make more sense to avoid buying Watch 1, waiting for Watch 2, which will have a lower historical value.

We'll have to see if that happens. I may have to cough up $200.

Anyway, I will own an Apple Watch. I just won't own one until I'm a bit older and grayer.

And as an aside, I certainly expect Apple stock to be worth more tomorrow than it is today. So it would be interesting to take the $800 to $900 I won't be spending on a new Apple Watch and buy Apple shares instead.

SEE ALSO: Here's the thing about the Apple Watch — it isn't really a watch

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What exactly is a "Rolex Oyster Professional" watch? Most Rolex watches produced today use the brand's Oyster case which embodies years of development that started with the original Rolex Oyster watch from 1926.

At the time Rolex pioneered the first ever watch case with screw down crown, bezel, and caseback that offered water resistance and dust protection, though it was not until 1953 that the Professional Collection was born.

The idea of the Rolex Oyster Professional today is the perpetuation of timepiece models that were originally intended for professional use. That included watches for people engaged in diving, flying, automotive and sport racing, science and industrial work, as well as general planetary exploration.

Rolex Oyster Professional watches by nature are more durable and utilitarian in design, and they also have in many instances additional production or testing steps added to their manufacture before they leave Rolex and go out to the consumer.

So in short, a Rolex Oyster Professional watch today is one that is based on a historic model meant for actual professional use and is produced with some extra safety and reliability features compared to Rolex's more casual or dress models.

Two of Rolex's foundational Oyster Professional watches were born in 1953; they were the Explorer and Submariner. 1953 was also a moment when Rolex experienced one of their most important social achievements that would mark how the brand would be perceived thenceforth. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay were part of the British expedition to climb mount Everest, and succeeded in being the first people in the world to do so. It was an amazing feat of human endurance and today watch fans recall the fact that Hillary (and Norgay) wore a Rolex Oyster Perpetual timepiece. The model would quickly evolve into being the now iconic Rolex Explorer, which was also released that year. The message to the public was that the Explorer was the timepiece of people who went to extreme lengths to get to where they wanted to be– an allegory that would transcend scientific exploration into the lives and struggles of normal people.

1953 was also the year that Rolex released the very first Submariner– a timepiece they claim as the world's first timepiece water resistant to 100 meters. In many ways the Submariner was the ultimate evolution of the Rolex Oyster case, as it was further refined for additional water resistance. While the "Oyster Professional" term did not exist yet in 1953, the Submariner and Explorer were two timepieces designed for, and often used by, professionals versus merely the general public. This was a golden age of modern exploration in the world as the pre-space race era was about exploring great depths and great heights.

After releasing models for scientific exploration and deep diving, Rolex decided to expand its focus on timepieces for pilots as well as physicists. Aviation professionals have been lucky enough to enjoy the attention of watchmakers since almost the beginning of flight in the early 20th century. Rolex was comparatively late to the game with their first aviation-themed watches coming in 1955 with the original GMT-Master. Watch lovers know the story of the GMT-Master well as Rolex worked closely with the commercial airline Pan Am (Pan American World Airways) to create what their pilots needed. In many ways Rolex worked off of a successful formula. In fact, if you've ever wondered why so many Rolex Oyster Professional watches look similar, it is because Rolex did not try to reinvent the wheel with each new timepiece, but rather add additional or different features to their previous generation wheel.

For that reason, the GMT-Master from 1955 was very similar to the Submariner, which itself quickly adopted the hands from the Explorer. What made the GMT-Master different was the 24 hour GMT hand, and 24 hour scale bezel. The GMT master was also unique (and later iconic) because of its two-tone blue and red bezel that was meant to be a sort of AM/PM indicator. This would later be known as the "Pepsi bezel" due to its similarity with the color tones of the soft drink. In many ways it was similar to the Submariner, but with some important but visually minor changes.

The situation was similar with the 1956 Rolex Milgauss– a timepiece they produced in collaboration with the CERN laboratory in Switzerland. The physicists there wanted a magnetically shielded watch that was not susceptible to the magnetic fields created around their particle accelerators. So Rolex created a timepiece for scientists with the Milgauss that was resistant to 1,000 Gauss because of a soft iron core that shielded the movement. For this watch, Rolex wanted something a bit more genteel, yet still a professional watch. The Milgauss more or less had the existing Oyster case, but the dial was inspired by the original Rolex Oyster Perpetual models with a lightning bolt seconds hand.

It was in 1963 that Rolex launched the Oyster Cosmograph that would soon become the Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Daytona. Rolex had been producing chronograph models for at least 30 years at that point but this was their first real racing world-inspired chronograph watch. No one really knows where the term "Cosmograph" came from, though it is Rolex-speak for chronograph. I've actually asked Rolex this question myself and they more or less said that a Rolex chronograph watch should measure more than just the time so they needed a cool name to indicate such. I do admit that Cosmograph does have a pleasant sense of mystery to it.

Daytona was added as Rolex began to have a more serious involvement with the world of racing and named the watch family after the now famous race track in Florida. Unlike the other models in the now Rolex Oyster Professional collection, the Daytona would eventually adopt a slightly different case design due to the existence of the chronograph pushers. The original Daytona models did not include screw-down pushers, but the collection would later be known for this feature as Rolex added them to increase durability and water and dust resistance.

Stepping back a few years for a moment to 1960, Rolex released the Deep Sea Special that was a non-commercial concept watch meant for extreme diving. It featured an extremely thick steel case and almost comical bulbous crystal given that it was going down near the bottom of the Mariana trench strapped to the Trieste bathyscaphe submersible. The production of the Deep Sea Special gave Rolex valuable knowledge about extreme water resistance and the watch successfully descended to 37,800 feet.

The development of the Deep Sea Special allowed Rolex to produce an even more durable version of the Submariner that they called the Sea-Dweller, which was originally released in 1967. It was water resistant to 630 meters, though later that number increased. In many ways the Sea-Dweller helped Rolex lead up to the modern Submariner and DeepSea timepieces of today.

By the 1960s, Rolex had released most of the major models that would fall under the modern Rolex Oyster Professional umbrella. Additional models would come later of course, but each of them existed to build on concepts and timepieces that Rolex released from between 1953 and 1967. The most recent Rolex Oyster Professional models families are the Yacht-Master originally 1992, and the Sky-Dweller from 2012. Pretty much everything else such as the Explorer II and GMT-Master II was an evolution or update on an existing collection.

In 1971 Rolex released the Explorer II which combined the allure of the original Explorer with the GMT-Master. Rather than a rotating 24 hour bezel it has a fixed one, but offered the benefit of a second time zone. It was meant to be not just an explorer's watch, but a more durable explorer's watch meant for harsh conditions such as polar or underground exploration. One purpose of having a 24 hour hand on a timepiece such as this was giving explorers the ability to know whether it was day or night rather than use the GMT hand to indicate a second timezone. This was an important feature when exploring in a place where the sun didn't go down, or deep in a cave without any sunlight.

The Yacht-Master is perhaps the odd man out because it was never developed for strictly professional use. The Yacht-Master is more a child of the times, as in the 1990s the mechanical watch industry was fully invested in moving upmarket. With sport watches being ever popular, Rolex was intent on producing a high-end, yet durable sport watch that people could use while sailing for sport or pleasure. Today, all Yacht-Master watches have either a platinum or gold bezel rather than a steel one. The Yacht-Master II was released in 2007 and was not only perhaps the largest Rolex watch produced, but also signaled an intent to delve into more complicated movements by Rolex. The Yacht-Master II contains a programmable countdown timer chronograph which is partially adjusted by turning the bezel.

I asked Rolex what year the term "Oyster Professional" began to be used in their marketing and sales materials, but they did not offer a specific response except to indicate the 1953 birth year of the pieces that began the collection. My instinct is that Rolex began to make a semantic distinction in the 1990s, or perhaps 1980s. Today Rolex Oyster Professional watches are more or less defined as their sport watches. While both men and women wear most models, only the Yacht-Master has specific versions for ladies with smaller-sized cases.

Even though Oyster Professional watches are sporty and durable by nature, I was curious as to what else, if anything separated them from Rolex's other Oyster collection timepieces today. Specifically, I was curious about whether there were distinct production processes or tests that only Oyster Professional watches were subject to.

According to Rolex there is no specific list of features, production techniques, or tests that apply to all of the Rolex Oyster Professional watches, but overall the cases they use and the way they test the final watches are more rigorous than other watches they produce. Furthermore, the production of Oyster Professional timepieces can be more complicated than that of a Rolex Oyster Datejust or Day/Date. The Milgauss, for example, has a case that is surrounded by a magnetic shield, and the Deep Sea has extra features such as the Ringlock system, which is involved in its massive level of water resistance. 

In the design phase Rolex Oyster Professional sport watches are given beefier cases and features such as crown guards to protect the crown. Even though not all professionals use mechanical timepieces today, Rolex is still invested in producing the highest-quality professional-use timepiece possible. Further, I would say that Rolex Oyster Professional watches are designed for greater longevity, but I don't think that is true. From what I have experienced pretty much all Rolex timepieces are designed to last as long as possible given their intended use.

One area that Rolex Oyster Professional watches receive more intense durability testing is in regard to water resistance. All Rolex dive watches are tested first in an air chamber (along with other Oyster case models), and again in actual compression chambers filled with water. Rolex indicates that all of their dive watches are tested to be capable of withstanding 25% more than their posted water resistance level– an interesting bit of information for sure. The DeepSea models actually have their own special water testing chamber that Rolex developed with Comex. Because it tests so much more water pressure, the system that tests the water resistance of each DeepSea watch takes over an hour.

While Rolex offered some useful information in our discussion of the history and development of the Rolex Oyster Professional watch, aBlogtoWatch did visit Rolex's manufacture to observe and better understand how Rolex makes its watches. Today Rolex Oyster Professional watches are luxury items that haven't forgotten what made them popular and desirable items in the first place. Models such as the Submariner to the GMT-Master II are still so popular because they have never forgotten their tool watch origins. It is possible for novices to be confused as to why many of them share design features, but understanding their history and how Rolex built off previous models to develop new ones allows for a greater understanding of how the Rolex Oyster Professional family of watches evolved very organically.

It has been a while since Rolex has developed a new collection of watches with the professionals of today in mind. In 2012 Rolex surprised everyone by releasing the DeepSea Challenge concept watch that went down with James Cameron back to the Mariana Trench. That was very cool, more so knowing that Rolex literally had just weeks to produce it. Though it would also be interesting to see Rolex see to the needs of other modern active professionals in the creation of new members of the Rolex Oyster Professional family in the near future. So what is an Rolex Oyster Professional watch? In addition to being among the world's most successful sport watches, they are also a signal of class and ideals that recalls Rolex's achievements with professional wearers in the mid 20th century until today.

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